11/11/2009
values:
Temperature: 24.0 ° C;
pH: 7.0;
KH: 5;
GH: 10;
No2: 0.0
O2: not measured;
Co2: 16;
Co2 bubbles: 16b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
04/11/2009
values:
Temperature: 23.5 ° C;
pH: 7.0;
KH: 4;
GH: 10;
No2: 0.0
O2: not measured;
Co2: 13;
Bolle Co2: 19b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
28/10/2009
values:
Temperature: 24.0 ° C;
pH: 7.0;
KH: 5;
GH: 11;
No2: 0.0
O2: not measured;
Co2: 16;
Bolle Co2: 11b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
14/10/2009
values:
Temperature: 24.0 ° C;
pH: 6.5;
KH: 5;
GH: 11;
No2: 0.0
O2 : not measured;
Co2: 50;
Bolle Co2: 20b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
07/10/2009
values:
Temperature: 24.0 ° C;
pH: 7.5;
KH: 5;
GH: 11;
No2: 0.0
O2 : not measured;
Co2: 55;
Bolle Co2: 0b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
30/09/2009
values:
Temperature: 24.0 ° C;
pH: 6.5;
KH: 5;
GH: 11;
No2: 0.0
O2 : not measured;
Co2: 50;
Bolle Co2: 30b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
23/09/2009
values:
Temperature: 24.0 ° C;
pH: 6.0;
KH: 5;
GH: 9;
No2: 0.0
O2: not measured;
Co2: 159;
Bolle Co2: 27b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
Since the flow of water coming out of the filter was very low, I proceeded to clean the filter, then I put 2 tablets flornette Sera A, 6 drops of vitamins and I made some cuttings of some plants for thickening.
16/09/2009
values:
Temperature: 24.0 ° C;
pH: 6.5;
KH: 4;
GH: 9;
No2: 0.0
O2: not measured;
Co2: 40 ;
Bolle Co2: 19b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
change water 10% 100% RO, clean leaves of Anubias, siphon the bottom, 6 drops vitamins, 10ml Sera florena.
09/09/2009
values:
Temperature: 23.0 ° C;
pH: 6.5;
KH: 5;
GH: 10;
No2: 0.0
O2: not measured;
Co2: 50;
Bolle Co2: 21b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
change water 20% 100% RO, pruning plants, trapping, 10ml Sera flornette, 6 drops vitamins. Water heater on again.
26/08/2009
values:
Temperature: 26.0 ° C;
pH: 7.0;
KH: 4;
GH: 11;
No2: 0.0
O2: not measured;
Co2: 13 ;
Bolle Co2: 15b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
change water 20% 100% RO, Potato plants trap, increased CO2, 2 tablets flornette Sera A, a little florena Sera, Sera nitrivec 1 ml, 6 drops Sera vitamins.
15/08/2009
values:
Temperature: 26.0 ° C;
pH: 7.0;
KH: 5;
GH: 12;
No2: 0.0
O2: not measured;
Co2: 16 ;
Bolle Co2: 12b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
Change 10% 80% RO water 20% tap, potato plants, trapping, Sera florena, 6 drops vitamins, 5 ml sera pH minus - increased CO2 output.
05/08/2009
values:
Temperature: 24.5 ° C;
pH: 7.0;
KH: 4;
GH: 11;
No2: 0.0
O2: not measured;
Co2: 13;
Bolle Co2: 15b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
Change 20% 100% RO, pruning plants, trapping the bottom, 2 tablets Flornette Sera A, 6 drops vitamins, 0.5 ml Sera nitrivec, plus 1 / 2 notch CO2.
29/07/2009
values:
Temperature: 25.5 ° C;
pH: 7.5;
KH: 4;
GH: 11;
No2: 0.0
O2: not measured;
Co2: 4 ;
Bolle Co2: 0b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
Change 10% 100% RO water, raised dead plants, trapping Fund, 10 ml Sera florena, 6 drops vitamins, evening 10ml pH minus - 0.5ml nitrivec Sera.
22/07/2009Replaced CO2 bottle over.
15/07/2009
values:
Temperature: 26 ° C;
pH: 6.5;
KH: 5;
GH: 11;
No2: 0.0
O2: 8.2;
Co2: 47; Bolle
Co2: 41b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
25% water change with RO 100%, siphon, contained in the sponge filter back normal, 2 tablets flornette A Sera, Sera nitrivec 1 ml, 1 ml of sera toxivec off heater the summer heat, 6 sera Vitamins.
12/07/2009
values:
Temperature: 29 ° C;
pH: 7.0;
KH: not measured;
GH: 10;
No2: 0.0;
O2: 7.8;
CO2: not measured
Bolle CO2: not measured
Photoperiod: 12 hours
Today I put the charcoal in the filter, to remove traces of Costapur Sera.
I removed the dead leaves of plants that have suffered due to lack of light and CO2.
I turned on the lights and re-plant CO2 is lowered by 2 ° C water temperature.
Posted 1 ml and 5 ml Sera Sera nitrivec florena. 6 drops of vitamins.
05/07/2009
10% water change with RO 100%, 2ml nitrivec Sera, Sera 6 drops Vitamins, 1ml florena Sera.
I noticed some white spots on skin and fins of certain fish, especially on neon blacks. This is the dreaded white spot disease.
I proceeded to remove all Caradine aquarium that I put in a pan in part, because the risk of killing drugs in a short time. So I added
7 sera Costapur and increased the temperature of 2 ° C aquarium, I also turned off the lights, because during the treatment of this disease, it is recommended to switch off lights during the course of the entire treatment. I also suspended the dosing of CO2 and activated the aerator. Of course the plants during the period of darkness and the absence of CO2, will have some problems.
27/06/2009
values:
Temperature: 25 ° C;
pH: 6.5;
KH: 5;
GH: 12;
No2: 0.5
O2: 8.3;
Co2: 47
Co2 bubbles: 14b/min.
Photoperiod: 12 hours
Unfortunately as I feared, the values \u200b\u200bof nitrites and rose. The first victim was a neon innensi.
I decide to do a water change with RO 25% 100% as possible to lower the values \u200b\u200bof nitrite, also I added 11.25 ml Sera toxivec. 2 ml of sera nitrivec to help a little filter. 2 pads of Sera Flornette 6 drops of vitamins A and della Sera.
I hope that there are more victims in the coming days.
15/06/2009
values:
Temperature: 25 ° C;
NO2: 0.0
Photoperiod: 12 hours
09/06/2009
values:
Temperature: 25 ° C;
NO2: 0.0
O2: 8.3;
Photoperiod: 12 hours
08/06/2009
Today my godmother bought fish c / o Qualipet crabs. Although I had advised not to take too many fish bought anyway:
7 Cheirodon Axelrod (there could be);
2 Hyphessobrycon Herbeitax (neon blacks) (personally I would have avoided because of the sensitivity);
1 Beaufortia Leverett (there could also be because it keeps the glass clean from algae), 3
Trigonostigma heteromorpha (harlequin fish) (I would not put to their delicacy) .
Result? Sovrafollato an aquarium. I predict that the filter is not able to sustain this amount of fish. So I decided to monitor the values \u200b\u200bof nitrite in the coming days.
07/06/2009
values:
Temperature: 25 ° C;
pH: 6.5 (OK!)
KH: 4.0;
GH: 12;
NO2: 0.0
O2: 8.5;
CO2: 10 (still low);
Bolle CO2: 16/min;
Photoperiod: 12 hours
Change 25% 100% RO water, 1 ml Sera florena, 6 drops of vitamins and 1 ml Sera pH minus.
28/05/2009
values:
Temperature: 25.5 ° C;
pH: 7.0 (yet high value);
KH: 4.0;
GH: 11;
NO2: 0.0
O2 8.3;
CO2: 13 (still low);
Bolle CO2 9/min;
Photoperiod: 12 hours
Today I proceeded to thoroughly clean the aquarium glass and place a little plants. Then I changed the water with RO 10% to 100%. 1 ml nitrivec Sera, Sera flornette 2 tablets of A, and 6 drops of vitamins della Sera.
16/05/2009
values:
Temperature: 24.5 ° C;
pH: 7.0 (yet high value);
KH: 3.0;
GH: 11;
NO2: 0.0
O2: 8.3 ;
CO2: 13 (still low);
Bolle CO2 9/min;
Photoperiod: 12 hours
Work carried out: Changing the 25% RO water with 100% added to 1 ml of sera nitrivec, 10 ml Florena Sera Sera flornette pads and 2 A, 6 sera Vitamins.
Unfortunately I found that she died a Caradine.
- Temperature: 25 ° C;
- pH: 7.0 (yet high value);
- KH: 3.0;
- GH: 12;
- NO2: 0.0
- O2: 8.3;
- CO2: 10 (still low);
- Bolle CO2 0/min;
- Photoperiod: 12 hours a day
Here are some photos:
bottle - valve - bubble
The speaker of CO2
Ampolla for permanent CO2 test
values:
- Temperature: 25 ° C;
- pH: 7.0 (yet high value);
- O2: 8.3;
- Photoperiod: 12 hours
22/04/2009
values:
- Temperature: 25 ° C;
- pH: 7.5 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 13;
- NO2 : 0.0
- O2: 8.3;
- CO2: 4 (still low);
- Bolle CO2 0/min;
- Photoperiod: 12 hours
My godmother me announced that the tank still does not produce CO2. At this point I bring all that? Boh? The only two solutions that come to mind are:
A) to redo one of my CO2 cylinders gel DIY;
B) as soon as possible to find a classic implanted CO2 (cylinder + valve + atomizer), and I look up moh -Bay if there's something.
11/04/2009
values:
- Temperature: 25 ° C;
- pH: 7.5 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 11;
- NO2: 0.0
- O2: 8.3;
- CO2: 4 (still low);
- Bolle CO2 0/min;
- Photoperiod: 12 hours
10/04/2009
Today, unfortunately, died a Neon. His death and reputation almost certainly the problem pH too high. The other guests are all right but , but I fear for the fate of the other Neon.
05/04/2009
Work carried out: Change 10% (RO 100%), 10 ml of pH minus Sera, Sera 6 drops of vitamins, 5 ml Evening florena, 1 tablet Sera flornett A.
Because of the shortage of CO2, planting Echinodorus tenellus have yellowed a lot, and soon die, so I decided them off. In this way prevents water from being polluted. To compensate for the replacement, I have included several "bearing" skin endiviifolia, that a comparison of t. Echinodorus are less demanding.
01/04/2009
values:
- Temperature: 25 ° C;
- pH: 7.5 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 11;
- NO2 : 0.0
- O2: 8.3;
- CO2: 4 (still low);
- Bolle CO2 0/min;
- Photoperiod: 12 hours
Since I was in the vicinity of Grange Qualipet, I decided to buy 5 Neocaradine Cherry Red and gifts to My godmother, in thanks for helping me in cleaning the old apartment with my mother.
18/03/2009
values:
- Temperature: 25 ° C;
- pH: 7.5 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- O2: 8.2;
- CO2 : 4 (still low);
- Bolle CO2 0/min;
- Photoperiod: 12 hours
15/03/2009
values:
- Temperature: 26 ° C;
- pH: 7.0 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 11;
- NO2: 0.0
- O2: 8.2;
- CO2: 12 (still low);
- Bolle CO2 0/min (cylinder does not work);
- Photoperiod: 12 hours
So, thinking of a possible procedural error, I've done to replace the content, unfortunately, to see if it works, you must wait 6 to 12 hours before it triggers the fermentation process. As a result of fear that the pH would increase, threatening the health of babies, I included other 5.62 ml Sera pH minus.
14.03.2009
The CO2 cylinder has stopped making bubbles. Uehli, my godmother's husband, has been responsible for the renewal of the contents of the CO2 cylinder.
11.03.2009
Viewed repeated requests by my godmother and the rest of the family members, I bought at the Grange Qualipet of 5 fish neon (Paracheidon innensi). I'm a bit skeptical about purchasing some premature, as the pH is still 7.0, but perhaps increasing the population of fish in the aquarium, there will be a greater production of CO2 faliciterà lowering the pH. However, although in principle I tend to use as little chemicals as possible, I also bought a bottle of 500 ml Sera pH minus.
I highly recommend to anyone who reads these lines, to make less of these products, because then you risk of becoming addicted. It is always better to use natural products such as peat, CO2, leaves Catappa to acidify the water.
However, since the needs of new users, I added 5.60 ml of Sera pH minus (50% dose recommended by the manufacturer).
10/03/2009
values:
- Temperature: 25.5 ° C;
- pH: 7.0 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 10;
- NO2: 0.0
- O2: 8.2;
- CO2: 12 (still low);
- CO2 Bubbles: 39/min;
- Photoperiod: 11:30 hours
I even increased the half-hour photoperiod.
27/02/2009
values:
- Temperature: 25.5 ° C;
- pH: 7.0 (yet high value);
- O2: 8.2;
- CO2 Bubbles: 67/min;
- Photoperiod: 11 hours
25/02/2009
values:
- Temperature: 26 ° C;
- pH: 7.0 (yet high value);
- O2: 8.2;
- Photoperiod: 11 hours The
24/02/2009
Values measured:
- Temperature: 26 ° C;
- pH: 7.5 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 10;
- NO2: 0.0
- O2: 8.2;
- CO2: 4 (still low);
- CO2 Bubbles: 53/min;
- Photoperiod: 11 hours
14/02/2009
values:
- Temperature: 25 ° C;
- pH: 7.0 (yet high value);
- O2: 8.2;
- Bolle CO2: 62 b / min;
- Photoperiod: 11 hours
Considerations: Today, the pH dropped to 7.0 with 62 b / min. Perhaps we are on track. This time does not perform partial water change as I proceeded to make a clean filter to prevent this from being discarded too many nitrifying bacteria at once. The Echinodorus tenellus for now are still yellowish, perhaps due to a shortage that would have to identify and adapt the amount of the components of the fertilizer PMDD.
We'll see.
11/02/2009
values:
- Temperature: 26 ° C;
- pH: 7.5 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- O2: 8.2;
- CO2 : 4 (still low);
- CO2 Bubbles: 40/min;
- Photoperiod: 11 hours
values:
- Temperature: 25.5 ° C;
- pH: 7.5 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 10.0;
- No2: 0.0;
- NO3: -.-;
- O2: 8.2;
- CO2: 4 ( still low);
- CO2 Bubbles: 30/min;
- Photoperiod: 11 hours
I also brought the bubbles of CO2 at 40 b / min.
Considerations: I noticed that the leaves of Echinodorus tenellus are yellowed, perhaps because the amount of CO2 is insufficient and perhaps now is also too low the amount of PMDD fertilization, which I took from 2 to 3 drops daily.
I also increased the photoperiod for a further 1 / 2 hour, porandola to a total of 11 hours.
02/02/2009 values:
- Temperature: 25.5 ° C;
- pH: 7.0 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 9.0;
- No2: 0.0;
- NO3: -.-;
- O2: 8.2;
- CO2: 13 (still low);
- CO2 Bubbles: 22/min
I took the photoperiod to 10 hours and 1 / 2
31/01/2009
values:
- Temperature: 26 ° C;
- CO2 Bubbles: 12/min
values:
- Temperature: 27 ° C;
- pH: 7.5 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 10.0;
- No2: 0.0;
- NO3: -.-;
- O2: 8.0;
- CO2: 4 (still low);
Bolle - CO2 7/min
Considerations: I found the 7-CO2 bubbles / min, still too few, I replaced the hose clamp to an IV with a tap of platic (the ones used to regulate the supply of air from the pump), after I set the bubbles to 22 b / min. surely that will tend to decrease again. My goal is to have 15 b / min. and measure the pH, if not yet bring the bubbles to 6.5 to 20 b / min.
Finally I set the daylight hours from 9 1 / 2 to 10 hours:
Light: 10:00-14:00
Off: 14:00-17:00
Light: 17:00 to 23:00
Total photoperiod: 10 hours
18/01/2009
values:
- Temperature: 23.5 ° C;
- pH: 7.5 ( value still high);
- O2: 8.5
17/01/2009
values:
- Temperature: 30 ° C!! (The heater is not calibrated correctly it seems);
- pH: 7.5 (yet high value);
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 10.0;
- No2: 0.0;
- NO3: 25 (still a little altino)
- O2: 7.7;
- CO2: CO2 Bubbles <4>
- : 6/min
GH has dropped a bit, the wood of bog seems to do its job, albeit slowly. The NO3
are still a little Altino, here I'll still have some pazzienza, in contrast to NO2 were 0, despite the inclusion of fish.
As I supposed, the number of bubbles has decreased dramatically, from 18 b / min which had set the 14.01.2009 I found it to provide only 6 b / min. So I eased back a little tube, so that provided 25 bubbles per minute, we'll see.
Interventions: Levato small amount of dead leaves and / or yellowing. Changing 10% water by trapping of the fund, added 6 drops of vitamins, 1 ml of sera nitrivec. Today I posted a
Crossocheilus siamensis, bought the Qualipet crabs. He will serve as eating algae.
Finally I set the daylight hours from nine hours to 9 1 / 2
Light: 9:30 to 2:00 p.m.
Off: 14:00-17:00
Light: 17:00-22:00
photoperiod Total: 9 1 / 2 hours
14/01/2009
Today we installed the system with its Hydor CO2 turbodiffuore. I also added two sticks of torbiea, which I proceeded to hide behind the two rocks. This I did because the wood gradually release humic acids that make the water slightly acidic, and that would make it a little softer (as the pH is 7.5 and arrived at the GH to 11) to avoid use of chemicals to correct these values.
After the installation of the CO2, I realized (after a good 6 hours of waiting), he produces too much CO2 to the aquarium only once for a 45L net, and unfortunately does not provide the whole system a Hydor system to reduce the release of CO2.
was urgent at this point a solution before I tried to tighten the hose with a plastic clamp, but this gave way. In the end I used a clamp that is normally used for pipes of the drip. The situation has improved, but unfortunately it is not easy to adjust the number of bubbles per minute. I'll have to go to a store and buy some special valves. Currently I have set everything to 18 bubbles per minute, but I think there will be variations in pressure, and the number of bubbles will decrease. 
10/01/2009 values \u200b\u200bmeasured before insertion of the first fish:
- Temperature: 22 ° C (heater was turned off)
- pH: 7.5;
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 11.0;
- No2: 0.0;
- NO3: 25
- O2: 8.7;
- CO2: CO2 Bubbles <4
- : 5/minute
addition, due to an error in setting the timer light, instead of being set to 8 hours (as set by me last 12/30/2008) was set to 9 hours. This promotes the development of green algae and filamentous Diamontee.
However, I noticed some positive things, the first is that the value of NO3 is Sciesa from 50 to 25, then the nitrogen cycle started to turn, also planting endiviifolia skins have begun to develop and issue of Runners in large quantities. Hygrophila polysperma has also begun to develop.
Before entering the first three fish (Corydoras Paleatus three children born in my tank), I proceeded to prune some plants, to raise a small amount of dead leaves, and draw off the fund. Then I put the new water treated with the Tetra Aqua Safe, I put the nitrivec Sera Sera and 6 drops of FischVitamine. After restoring the water temperature at 25 ° C, I quote aquarium bag containing three small Cory. After the usual process of adaptation, I have released.
Finally I put two drops of fertilizer PMDD.
To my surprise, I have observed that in the aquarium, there lived some unexpected guests, the Tupifex! Probably these worms nutrients, have developed inside the filter, given that the first water changes that I had lived in the aquarium even when the goldfish aquarium water I had used my mother's, where the substrate There are these cute little worms. Now let's spend a little time to see how evolgono things, and I hope soon to place the DIY CO2 system, which currently has a loss of CO2, if someone who knows the family of my godmother, is the desire to give a bell'impiantino CO2 as that proposed by Hydor (Hydor Green NRG Natural no. eBay 320303241857)
(who has ears, let him hear ...)
photoperiod is currently set up this way according to the needs of my godmother
Light: 10 :00-14: 30 (4 hours 1 / 2)
Off: 14:30-17:30 (3 hours)
Light: 5:30 p.m. to 22:00 ( 4 hours 1 / 2)
photoperiod Total: 9 hours
Fertilization day: 2 drops per day of fertilizer PMDD net for 45L.
30/12/2008
It was a very busy day, since I had to move the aquarium at the house of my mother than my godmother. Before proceeding with the move, I measured the following values:
- Temperature: 25.0 ° C;
- pH: 6.0;
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 10.0;
- No2: 0.0;
- NO3: unmeasured
- O2: 8.3;
- CO2: 120!
- CO2 Bubbles: 14/min
than that, I found that they were formed of algae on the stone is highest, and on some leaves of Anubias. The following photos:
On top of the tallest stone, were formed filamentous green algae (Phylum Chlorophyta) . Their appearance is normal in new construction.
The reasons that may have favored their comparasa are
- Nitrifying biomass insufficient to complete the nitrogen cycle;
- Biomass plant to consume enough nutrients dissolved
(in my case, nutrients are released from the substrate).
on some leaves of Anubias, have formed Diamontee . Again, their appearance is normal in a new
construction. Are formed by the silicates in tap water.
They are not a problem since it is harmless algae, due to changes
regular water and placing in the aquarium fish alghifori,
these algae will disappear.
However, I proceeded to remove a certain amount using a toothbrush and a siphon.
But now tell you how I proceeded to move the aquarium. After
trap 10L of water, I removed the filter and heater, and I put in the bucket where I had entered the 10L of water removed earlier, then I turned on both. This I did to prevent the nitrifying bacteria die.
Then I slowly removed the rest of the water, putting it in different buckets, leaving 3-4 cm of water from the substrate, in addition, to avoid the plants dry during transport, I proceeded to cover with two wet towels.
With the help of Sascha, his uncle, my wife and my mother, we started with transport.
Sascha and his uncle, took steps to carry the mobile aquarium and the bucket containing the filter. I have recommended that as soon as you get home, reconnect the filter to the current.
My mother and I the other hand, we proceeded to move the aquarium. My mom and I driving around in the trunk with the aquarium and two buckets full of water.
A tip for those who want to move an existing aquarium set up: I knew I had to carry the aquarium before setting up, I proceeded to endorse the same on a sturdy wooden board, so in addition to having a better grip during navigation, we avoid breaking the glass, because in this way, do not exercise pressure directly on the glass, thus avoiding breakage.
not imagine the difficulty in doing so that remained at the aquarium with the inclination of the machine, also in addition to the climbs and descents, there were holes in the road, corners etc.. At the end of the trip I was soaked with water I, aquarium plants.
Sascha and his uncle, meanwhile, took steps to place the furniture in the agreed spot, then Sascha helped me carry the aquarium for two flights of stairs to the mobile at this point we slid slowly from the aquarium wooden board on the cabinet, where I placed a layer of foam insulation. Fixed
the aquarium, I proceeded to fill the bathtub with water taken earlier. In order to prevent distortions dell'Akadama, I removed the towel, and through a tube with a stopcock to regulate the flow, I started to gradually enter the water.
Almost filling, I removed the towel, and let the dust is resting on the substrate, after I entered the filter (since it was set on the heater in a bucket) and the heater.
Then I proceeded to prepare a 10L bucket of water, treated with Sera Sera toxivec nitrivec and for the total filling of the aquarium (45L net). To speed up the clarity of water, because it was still a little peat, I entered the Tetra CrystalWater. Finally, After entering the last 10L of water treated, I put two drops of fertilizer PMDD.
At this point the work was finished, we just had to wait for the arrival of my godmother, that we have had from home through the help of her hairdresser.
Result? Godmother happy and moved by the gift, and a new haircut, including Mesches of red, which in normal cases would never do (heh heh).
21/12/2008 Measured today:
- Temperature: 24.5 ° C;
- pH: 6.5;
- KH: 4.0;
- GH: 11.0;
- No2 : 0.0;
- NO3: 50
- O2: 8.4;
- CO2: 38
- CO2 Bubbles: 16/min
A value that has left me puzzled is that of GH, which has increased from 9 to 11, despite the use dell'Akadama which in theory should lower the value of hardness. If by chance next week would further increase the value, I will consider using a wood bog that has the property of GH decrease, or to use a liquid product such Sera Morena. I have instructed my sister Tanja, a 15% water change on Wednesday, instead of 10% as it has done so far.
17/12/2008
My sister Tanja proceeded to do a water change of 10% (5 liters) of treated water conditioner Tetra also has also nitrivec Sera.
14/12/2008 Today, before proceeding to make a water change of 15% (7 liters), I did the test values water, which occur in this way:
- Temperature: 24 ° C;
- pH: 6.5;
- KH: 3.0;
- GH: 9.0;
- No2: 0.0;
- O2: 8.4;
- CO2: 28
the blue background with a special glue for JBL, so as to remove those unsightly air bubbles. Finally, I inserted a CO2 Topper (DIY) connected to a cylinder of CO2 in the gel (also DIY).
The general water parameters are good and also I have not seen any algae on the plants, and this makes me very happy, since it is one of the major problems that occur during a new construction.
10/12/2008
My sister Tanja proceeded to do a water change of 10% (5 liters) of treated water conditioner Tetra also has also nitrivec Sera.
8/12/2008 The aquarium as it is now. The water is almost crystal clear now, however, decided to leave behind the filter with the Perlon wool, because I noticed AlCu correction of equipment that I will carry on plants, particularly Vallisneria sp.
From this point on begins the vesting period.
As you can see from the photo, the background has some unsightly air bubbles, so I'll inevitably buy the glue for the application of fixed backgrounds for aquariums.
7/12/2008 Here's what the aquarium in the evening. The water is further lightened.
I decided at this point to insert the filter Eheim 2007. The filter question that I kept on inside the bucket, it has maintained its role as a mature and active filter, so I had to put any product to activate it.
7/12/2008 Here's what the aquarium the next day. Now you can distinguish the plants and rocks, but there is still turbidity. I
provisional to make the first test the water with the following results:
- Temperature: 25 ° C;
- pH: 6.5;
- KH: 3.0;
- GH: 8.0;
- No2: 0.0;
- O2: 8.3;
- CO2: 28
6/12/2008 After reaching the top 20 cm of water, I started planting. The plants that I quote are:
- Anubias var.nana;
- Vallisneria spiralis;
- Hygrophila polysperma;
- Sagittaria subula;
- Cryptocoryne Beckett
- Echinodorus tenellus;
- Skins endiviifolia.
After planting I proceeded to completely fill the tank (I put in 45 gallons total). How can consist of photos, although he was careful not to stir too much Akdamar, the water is very cloudy. That is why I put the filter to remove particles Akadama. It will take from 2-3 days until the water will again be clear.
I set up an initial 6-hour photoperiod, to avoid the proliferation of algae initial pests that occur normally in the initial periods of the new arrangements. Later I will provide to periodically increase the photoperiod of 30 min. every 7 days (but depending on how you will involve the aquarium). I proceeded to put a spotlight 15w Juwel neon, this is to increase the brightness a little.
I entered the Sera Sera and toxivec nitrivec.
6/12/2008 For the topping, I used a pump.
6/12/2008 order to prevent the entry of water is the smuovesse Akadama, I entered the pipe filling into the shell of the filter and in a plastic bag.
6/12/2008 After putting the layer of fertile JBL Akadama the outer layer (about 2 cm), I started to put the first 10 liters of water (the "mature").
6/12/2008 As you can see, I did not put the substrate in a conventional manner (a flat surface), but I created two "hills" with the center a little valley. While similar marker substrate I proceeded to move the rocks so that they find a stable position.
6/12/2008 Entering the fertile substrate JBL "pure, I did not skimp on quantity.
6/12/2008 I started to enter the soil fertile JBL. The first cm is composed of a mixture of substrate mixed with the JBL and Akadama of Gravelit. This will serve as the intermediate layer mixture.
6/12/2008 On the right I have placed a large internal screen filled with Perlon wool. This used to filter water from the dust that will surely not just insert the Akadama released alongside the water.
6/12/2008 From the photo you can see that I proceeded to fix the Akadama along the edges, thus hiding the Gravelit. I poured over the Gravelit 30g Tetra Initial Sticks (dark gray dust) that I proceeded to shred. The Tetra Initial stiks used to activate the bottom with beneficial bacteria to the substrate, also gradually releases nutrients to the plants.
6/12/2008 Gravelit with over 30g of powdered Tetra Initial Sticks.
6/12/2008
Top view of how I positioned the rocks. Note that I proceeded to take the separate Gravelit the side windows, this is because I wanted to hide the Akadama the inner layers.
6/12/2008
over the layer of Gravelit I placed the rocks in the position I had previously agreed on a draft paper on the principle of the golden section of the stands and inspired by Takashi Amano. The choice of
usufrire sunny rocks to the layout, is due to the fact that often, the woods are a hindrance to the normal and regular maintenance of the aquarium. It will happen to many of going mad trying to catch a fish with the net, and find themselves entangled in the net with a branch.
6/12/2008 As you can see from the photo above, I put the heater in the aquarium 50W and the exterior of the filter Eheim 2007, also a layer of 2 cm Gravelit directly on the glass . Technical accessories, I included it in this way is easier to assess the space and positioning the rocks. Gravelit layer of 2 cm is required to prevent the phenomenon anoxia of the root system of plants. With thick grain size Gravelit, and its irregular shape, between a grain and the other you will create the "streets" where water and oxygen can move this to the benefit of the roots that can respire and to avoid rot. Let us remember that the health of all plants, both terrestrial and non-health itself is directly linked to the root system.
6/12/2008
Today I finally started construction. The Akadama then was treated for 24 days. First, I proceeded to empty the tank. The water "old" I have not thrown away because they are already "mature", then full of helpful bacteria, the re-use to fill the aquarium. So, I took three buckets, I emptied the tank, I moved the goldfish and plants inside the filter in one of the buckets.
Once drained, I put the aquarium in a large wooden table that will allow me to facilitate transport from my mother's house to that of the celebrated.
Then I proceeded to clean up a little that the deposits were formed on the glass. I applied the back window of a blue background. I found one that comes close to the color of the background ADA. I did not use any glue for the moment, because I wanted to be able to change the background based on the result I would be presented at the end of the display, so I applied provisionally with clear tape.
